Drawing on over three decades in the jewellery sector and his role as a Board Member of the Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030, Raj Mehta discusses how tradition and innovation can coexist, why inclusivity is essential across the value chain, and how the next generation of leaders can build trust through respect and responsibility.

Mr. Mehta, you have been part of the jewellery industry since the late 80s. How have you seen the diamond and jewellery sectors evolve in terms of ethics, transparency, and responsibility since then? 

Absolutely—it has evolved significantly, particularly after 2001. Over time, ethics, transparency, and responsibility have become increasingly detailed and structured elements of the business. Today’s diamond industry, compared to that of the ’80s or even ’90s, is completely different in how businesses are managed. These three pillars—ethics, transparency, and responsibility—are interconnected and dependent on one another. Many areas of the value chain have now been formalized, with corporate responsibility embedded into business strategies. Without this, it’s difficult to remain a key player in today’s landscape. Stakeholder expectations—whether from suppliers, clients, or regulators—require clear answers. A good example is KYC (Know Your Customer), which has become standard. We’ve seen the rise of new tools and platforms in recent years, like the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) and the Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030 (WJI 2030), which are helping both SMEs and large players adapt to a new era where the consumer has become a powerful driver of change.

How do you balance tradition – so deeply embedded in jewellery – with the need for innovation and change? 

Traditions remain important; what has changed is how we implement and execute them. Innovation has always existed in our industry, but technology has dramatically increased the pace and possibilities of what we can achieve. Importantly, innovation doesn’t need to replace tradition—it can enhance it. Technology can support improvements in design, manufacturing, quality, and marketing. Tradition provides a foundation and guidance for innovation to build upon. 

Watch and Jewellery Initiative 2030 brings together companies of all sizes, from luxury houses to SMEs. How do you ensure that the initiative remains inclusive and relevant for all? 

That’s one of the core responsibilities of the Initiative—to ensure inclusivity and relevance across the entire value chain, not just for the large brands, but also for SMEs, which make up a significant and vital part of our industry.

SMEs often serve niche markets and bring unique value to the ecosystem. It’s crucial they have access to the same tools, education, and support. The Initiative regularly hosts workshops throughout the year where members openly share their challenges and insights. WJI 2030 is also a signatory of the UN Global Compact and the Women’s Empowerment Principles, which offer valuable data and guidance for all members to implement within their own businesses.

What does an inclusive watch and jewellery industry look like to you in practice? 

A great question. Our industry is truly global—it brings together a wide array of cultures, communities, and creative influences. It is, at its heart, a people-centric industry.

In practice, inclusion means designing watches and jewellery that suit different skin tones and body types, and making these pieces more accessible than ever before. We’re seeing a rise in culturally inclusive collections, often developed through collaborations with local designers or artisans. Gender-neutral marketing is becoming more common, which is a welcome shift. We’re also seeing more women in leadership—at the C-suite level—within the watch and jewellery space, and the luxury sector overall. Brands like Audemars Piguet, Chanel, Harry Winston, and Van Cleef & Arpels are great examples. So yes, I believe the industry is evolving in the right direction but in the mid stream we still have a lot of work to do. 

Finally, what advice would you give to the next generation of leaders who want to build a jewellery sector that is sustainable, inclusive, and socially responsible?

It’s not easy—especially as the external environment is constantly changing—but one thing that always holds true is this: respect for one another, regardless of gender or background, must be at the core of everything we do.

Lead with honesty. Be committed to giving back to society. These principles are timeless and deeply valuable—not just in building a sustainable business, but also in creating trust with your customers. After all, consumers are the ultimate decision-makers. If you stay true to these values, you’ll not only create high-quality products, but also build long-lasting relationships in the industry.